A New View of Cuba

John Rae (left) makes a new acquaintances during a visit to a crocodile farm in Guama, Cuba  (Irfan Hanif)

Although I had travelled to 24 countries around the world, I had never visited any of the Caribbean islands. When I discovered Traveleyes, a U.K.-based travel company that organizes tours for persons who are blind or have low vision, I decided I could do two things at the same time: check out Traveleyes, and see Cuba as it currently is, before any significant changes take place.

Traveleyes was founded in 2004 by Amar Latif, himself blind and a seasoned world traveller with a passion for exploration. “I founded Traveleyes with the specific purpose of enabling those without sight to see the world.”

Latif explains that customers can simply browse the company’s accessible brochure and book to choose a trip. “That’s the kind of total independence that I always sought for myself as a blind person.”

While many companies offer trips for blind travellers, Traveleyes does something unique. Its holidays feature a balanced number of blind and sighted travellers. Each day, blind travellers are paired with sighted participants, who act as guides. We changed partners each day, which provided the opportunity to get to know everyone on the tour. “Sighted travellers are not carers; they are fellow holidaymakers,” says Jenny Saunders, tour leader. “They act as the eyes for the blind travellers.”

Sighted travellers benefit from a discount in return for describing the sights for those who are blind. (All sighted travellers must provide a copy of their police records check or an employer’s reference before being accepted.) “Those with sight also tend to return to Traveleyes time and time again, not specifically out of a desire to do ‘good works,’ but because they had so much more fun, and made so many more new friends, than tended to be the case on previous holidays they have taken,” adds Saunders.

Intrigued, I signed up for a nine-day tour of Cuba that offered a great deal of variety. We stayed in three different cities: Old Havana, which became Cuba’s capital in 1552; the city of Trinidad, founded by conquistador Diego Velazquez in 1514 and later declared a world heritage site; and Varadero, which offers 12 and a half miles of white-sand beaches and lots of all-inclusive hotels.

The tour packed in a lot of interesting sites, but also left time for relaxation and independent exploration. Walking with a sighted traveller each day proved to be a very positive experience. Most of my partners were excellent at describing the landscape and places we went. (I enjoyed the experience so much that I already have some new tours in mind for next year.)

We visited a cigar factory and rum museum, went on an extensive walking tour of Old Havana, visited a crocodile farm in Guama (where all of us got the chance to hold a baby croc), and toured a plantation owner’s mansion.

Old Havana is one of the most vibrant places I have ever visited. Music pours out of restaurants into the streets, a detail that reminded me of the French Quarter in New Orleans. The streets feel like they have cobble stones, and I was able to spend some time with the locals.

A particular highlight for me was our time in Santa Clara, a city that was founded in 1689. We visited the Che Guevara Memorial and Museum, built in honour of the Marxist revolutionary and guerrilla leader. Begun in 1982, the complex was inaugurated on Decem- ber 28, 1988, the 30th anniversary of the date Guevera took Santa Clara. It was here that the former dictator Batista and his troops surrendered to Guevara. We saw the preserved coaches of the armoured train that Guevara’s men derailed. The site is now a national monument.

In Varadero – a favourite hangout for the rich and famous – we could participate in optional activities, such as swimming with dolphins or going for a catamaran ride, experience the exhilaration of skydiving from a helicopter, or just take it easy (and enjoy the drinks) back at the hotel.

In terms of practical matters: Cuba has two official currencies: the Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC) and the National Peso (moneda nacional, or MN). Transactions involving foreigners almost always take place in CUC, including the mandatory 25 CUC airport departure tax.

Bring money in Canadian cash or travellers’ cheques, as U.S. dollars are not accepted in Cuba. It is possible to exchange currency into convertible pesos at airports, banks and hotels, but banks are preferable, as the commission charged at hotels can be extremely high.

Cuba has been hurt by the ongoing U.S. embargo. Many cars are old, though we toured throughout in a modern, comfortable mini-bus. Consumer goods are hard to come by, and many people live in poverty. I suggest you do some reading about Cuba to get ready for your trip.

Cuba offers travellers many options, from the vibrant life of Havana to relaxing beaches. Bring an open mind, and you’re bound to have a great time.

John Rae is 1st Vice President of the Alliance for Equality of Blind Canadians (AEBC, www.blindcanadians.ca). He has a keen interest in world travel, and Cuba is the 25th country he has visited.