Good Tidings

By Carter Hammett

The guidebook said that if we happened upon the carcass of a dead cow, not to worry; it had probably just wandered too close to a cliff and fallen to its death. While this is not the sort of thing most tourists can expect to be warned about in their travel guides, it’s more than typical of the maritime casualness of Îles de la Madeleine.

Located in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the Magdalen Islands, as they are known in English (or “The Maggies,” to locals), collectively form an archipelago of 12 land masses, six of which are connected by sand dunes, over which a highway has been built. A mere five-hour ferry ride from Prince Edward Island, the islands truly feel a world away.

And this is one thing that makes the islands unique. They appear simultaneously remote and accessible all at once. One wanders past brightly coloured, hundred-year-old clapboard homes and down the street to an Internet café. One struggles to dissect an older French language speckled with nautical terms and local colour, while an Asian woman prepares egg rolls and chop suey at a local Chinese restaurant. Indeed, the Magdalen Islands are a place of diverse contrasts in a relatively small area – the total length of the islands barely reaches 60 km and they are often not even shown on maps – and yet each island asserts itself as an individual personality that begs to be explored.

From Cap-aux-Meules (Grindstone Island), the islands’ commercial centre that is also the local nightlife hotspot, to the tranquil beaches of Île au Loup (Wolf Island), there is something for everyone here. The artist colony of La Grave on l’Île-du-Havre-Aubert (Albert’s Harbour) boasts a fine collection of galleries, boutiques, cafés and theatre, and a history that dates back to 1755, when the area was first settled by Acadians who had been expelled from the Maritime provinces by English settlers.

Grand Entrée, on the archipelago’s east side, is the site of a national wildlife reserve where the endangered piping plover lays delicate, beach-coloured eggs. Rocher Oiseau (Bird Rock Island), inaccessible except by boat, was once home to a string of lighthouse keepers who witnessed many of the 400 shipwrecks that have occurred during the islands’ history.

Our host at Auberge la P’tite Baie, Luc Arsenault, informs us he was one of the last of the lighthouse keepers on Bird Rock before the lighthouses became fully automated several years ago. It is here that we dine on seal bourguignon, the evening’s special in the bustling kitchen of the century-old renovated home on Havre-aux-Maisons. Mark Twain once wrote that taste is the only sense for which there are no adjectives, and he was right. Still, the dish, pungent with garlic and red wine, can only be compared to beef that has spent a life underwater. It is surprisingly lean and has a slightly muddy taste, worth trying at least once.

It’s just one of many surprises that greet us during our week-long stay. Another is discovering how accessible the place is, considering its relative size and remoteness. Accessible activities, restaurants and accommodations are fairly plentiful on the islands. Many offer fully accessible services, including accessible entrances, chambers with plenty of room for movement of wheelchairs and adapted bathrooms with grab bars and lowered sinks. Of the accommodations we checked out, the most famous is the Château Madelinot on Cap-aux-Meules. Offering full access, the hotel also includes a superb seafood menu and seal-watching excursions in its repertoire. Less renowned but certainly more down to earth is the Auberge Chez Denis et François on l’Île-du-Havre-Aubert, another facility that combines comfortable and accessible accommodations with tantalizing seafood dining.

The range of accessible activities proves delightful as well. Be sure to visit the beautiful Museum of the Sea on Havre-Aubert and allow plenty of time to see this facility, which documents the history of fishing, transportation and navigation in the Gulf. Havre-Aubert is also home to the Aquarium des Îles and displays seals and fish found on the islands. It’s a treat to witness seals frolicking in the giant pools provided for them. Au Vieux Treuil is a summer theatre that features fine plays with local and imported actors. Cap-aux-Meules offers tours of a local lobster processing plant, and a tourist recreation centre that includes a fascinating geological exhibit describing the islands’ constantly-shifting landscape of sand and red sandstone, resting on exposed mountains of salt.

Of course, the islands also host a plethora of outdoor activities, including shark fishing, bird watching (over 200 species reside on the islands), glass-bottom boat tours and sea kayaking, to name a few. Outdoor enthusiasts should begin with Club Vacance, a non-profit agency that not only offers accessible lodging and dining, but also organizes a host of activities as well, including a lobster festival in June and a “Secrets of September” package that includes tours, sporting activities and meals. A fully accessible bus is available for tours in Cap-aux-Meules, for some absolutely breathtaking views of the islands.

At the end of the day, consider a trip to La Belle Anse on Cap-aux-Meules in the town of Fatima, for one of the most striking sunsets you will ever witness. It’s a fitting conclusion in a place of contrasts: where the roar of the mysterious sea draws you in to play and explore during the day, where the retreat of the waves lulls you to sleep at night.

(Toronto writer Carter Hammett can be reached at journalist4hire@yahoo.com.)

IF YOU GO:
Advance planning is absolutely essential for a successful trip to the Magdalen Islands. Call ahead to ensure a booking with a service that meets your individual needs. Air Canada offers direct flights from Toronto, Montreal and Quebec City. A ferry service will take five hours from Souris, Prince Edward Island. A cruise also travels direct from Montreal, May-October. Make your reservations early! Call CTMA: 1-888-986-3278

Where to Stay:
Auberge Chez Denis et Francois, l’Île-du-Havre-Aubert, (418) 937-2371
Hotel Chateau Madelinot, Cap-aux-Meules, 1-800-661-4537

Where to Eat:
La Table des Roy, Cap-aux-Meules, (418) 986-3004
Café de la Grave, l’Île-du-Havre-Aubert, (418) 937-5765
La Marée Haute, l’Île-du-Havre-Aubert, (418) 937-2492
Auberge La P’tite Baie, Havre-aux-Maisons, (418) 969-4073

Activities:
Club Vacance, Grand Entrée, (418) 985-2853
Service d’Autobus M.P. Poirier, Cap-aux-Meules, (418) 986-4467

Websites:
www.ilesdelamadeleine.com
www.tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com